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    Humagne Rouge 2005, Bonvin
    One day I might write a book about wine fraud. It is almost as fascinating a subject as wine itself, and it has been going on for a very long time indeed. In the first century AD the Roman satirist Petronius described a banquet given by a man called Trimalchio. The occasion was lavish, for […]
    Artemis 2005, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
    You often hear enthusiasts discuss a wine’s complexity, or lack of it. The term is seldom defined or even explained. Until the other day I assumed this was because its meaning was completely obvious. Now I am not so sure. My understanding is this: a wine is complex when it possesses not one flavour but […]
    Château D’Aiguilhe, Côtes de Castillon 2005
    The other night I opened a red from Moulis en Medoc.  It smelled like a rugby player’s socks and tasted like oven cleaner.  “Oh well, ” I told myself philosophically. “Duff bottle.  Can’t win ’em all.” But if we are to believe a story that ran throughout the British media last week, the fault was entirely mine.  […]